Craigmillar Castle.

Craigmillar Castle lies just three miles southeast of Edinburgh city centre and is among the most perfectly preserved castles in Scotland. Even today, it retains the authentic character of a medieval stronghold.

In the 12th century, David I granted lands and houses at Craigmillar to Dunfermline Abbey, with further grants in 1253. However, there is no evidence of a castle at that time. The first known castle was constructed by the Preston family after they acquired the Barony from John de Capella in 1374. They built a new castle on the foundations of an older fortress.

In 1477, James III imprisoned his brother, John, Earl of Mar, in one of Craigmillar's cellars—where he later died. When besieged in 1544 by the Earl of Hertford, acting on behalf of Henry VIII, the castle was surrendered on condition it wouldn’t be damaged—though it was burned nonetheless.

Craigmillar carries a rather notorious reputation. It was restored for Mary, Queen of Scots, who lived there in 1566–67 following the murder of her Italian secretary (and likely lover), David Rizzio, by her husband, Darnley. During this stay, a group of conspirators—including Argyll, Huntly, Bothwell, Maitland and Gilbert Balfour—plotted Darnley’s murder. Mary's private chamber in the south wing of the keep measures only 7 feet by 5, but features two windows and a fireplace. Her son, James VI, also stayed here. The castle was later converted into a comfortable residence in 1660 by John Gilmour.

One of Craigmillar’s most distinctive features is its bailey, which survives almost entirely intact and spans nearly 300 by 200 feet. Within this area lie farm buildings, a chapel, and gardens. The outer wall encloses a courtyard of about one acre.

The castle’s core—the tower house—was fortified in the 1420s with a substantial enclosure wall, creating a spacious courtyard with rounded towers at each corner. The wall measures approximately 5 feet thick and rises to 28 feet in places. Additional buildings were constructed along three sides of the interior.

Though it remained in private ownership for centuries, Craigmillar functioned as a semi-royal residence and was used as a retreat for the royal household, particularly during outbreaks of plague in Edinburgh. It acted as a convenient alternative to the city's primary residences, Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood House. The surrounding area became known as 'Little France', owing to Mary’s French courtiers lodging nearby during her stays.

A macabre discovery was made in 1813 during restoration works—a skeleton was found walled up in one of the vaults.

Craigmillar was eventually abandoned in the 18th century and donated to the nation by the Gilmour family in 1946.

What makes Craigmillar Castle truly special is how much of its original structure remains intact. The inner courtyard is now home to two impressive trees, which certainly didn’t exist during the Prestons’ time. The walls of nearly every building still stand, along with their vaulted floors—allowing visitors access up to roof level in the tower house and to the first floor across much of the castle. There is also a complete wall walk spanning two sides of the curtain wall.

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Edinburgh Castle.

Edinburgh Castle dominates the city of Edinburgh like no other castle in Scotland or, for that matter, the whole of the British Isles. Over one thousand years of history sit on top of the famous Edinburgh rock, and it is easy to see why over a million visitors a year visit Edinburgh Castle. When you visit Edinburgh Castle, you can see why the early inhabitants of the Edinburgh area made their first settlements here. In troubled times past, people always sought a safe refuge, and the volcanic rock in Edinburgh afforded the ultimate defensive position.

Edinburgh Castle is visited annually by approximately one million people - if we except the Tower of London, that is more people than visit any other ancient monument in the United Kingdom. Every visitor - particularly those on a restricted itinerary - should visit the Castle, not only because of the historical interest of this remarkable fortress and former royal residence, but because it offers such splendid panoramic views of the city. It is from these battlements, for example, that the traveler immediately appreciates the dramatic topography of Edinburgh, situated between sea and hills.

Within the confines of the Castle, there is much to see. It was the seat (and regular refuge) of Scottish Kings, and the historical apartments include the Great Hall, which now houses an interesting collection of weapons and armor. The Royal apartments include a tiny room in which Mary, Queen of Scots gave birth to the boy who was to become King James VI of Scotland and James I of England upon the death of Queen Elizabeth in 1603. The ancient Honours of Scotland - the Crown, the Scepter and the Sword of State - are on view in the Crown Room.

Nearby is the Scottish National War Memorial, a building designed and created shortly after the First World War; many who enter find the experience a moving one. Edinburgh Castle is also the home of the One O'Clock Gun. This is fired every day except Sunday at precisely 1:00 PM to provide everyone with an accurate check for their clocks and watches. It will certainly startle you if you are anywhere near the Castle at that moment!

The Castle Esplanade is the venue of the world-famous Edinburgh Military Tattoo, the annual occasion on which, over a period of three weeks in August, the Army presents a lively program of music, marching and historical re-enactments under floodlights before large and appreciative audiences.

No one is sure who first used the castle rock as a settlement, but it was long before the Romans came sailing up the Forth and landing at Cramond. The oldest building in all Edinburgh is to be found within the Castle precincts. It is St. Margaret's Chapel, a tiny Norman building which has been standing there intact for more than 900 years. It has survived all the sieges and bombardments to which the fortress on the rock was subjected during that period. On several occasions the castle was razed - but the demolishers invariably spared the chapel of the good St Margaret because of its religious significance. Today, members of the castle garrison still have the right to be married within the Chapel.

Mons Meg canon.

It's me at the giant medieval siege gun, which was presented to King James II in 1457 and used in war against the English. It was kept in the castle and used also for salutes. During one firing in 1558, the massive gun stone was found almost 2 miles away! It last fired in 1681 when its barrel burst.

It's located in Edinburgh Castle.

A small part of Edinburgh castle.

The old castle has many details. The walls are often decorated, and it's very interesting to walk around to see the variety of impressive skills the workers once had, when time and money didn't matter as much as today.

Scotts monument.

Situated on the east side of Princes Street Gardens, the two-hundred-foot-tall monument is a tribute to the Scottish author Walter Scott (1771-1832). The monument contains a statue of the author seated with his dog Maida at his feet. Carvings of characters from Scottish history and the author's books adorn the outside of the monument.

Sir Arthur's Seat.

The area beside the Palace of Holyroodhouse used to be a park for royal hunting. These days, Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Crags are open spaces used by locals and tourists for brisk, bracing walks - and magnificent views over the city. The volcanic plug rises to over 800 feet, and the open space has a circumference of four miles, yet it is in the middle of the city.

The best walk in the city is to the summit of Arthur's Seat, from where you get the very best view of the city, as well as the Pentland Hills to the south, the Firth of Forth and Fife to the north, and, on a clear day, the Highland peaks 70 or 80 miles away. The walk to the top is popular and easier than it looks. If you want to avoid the crowds during summer, then make an early start before breakfast and watch the sun rise over East Lothian.

There are several different routes, all of which take less than an hour, but a good circular walk that takes in the wilder areas and the lochs starts from St Margaret's Loch, little more than an artificial pond, at the far end of the park from the palace.

View of Edinburgh castle from Nelson Monument on Calton Hill.

From Nelson Monument you have a great view of Edinburgh. Scott's Monument is located to the left and the castle is in the middle. Nelson's Monument looks like an upturned telescope. On the interior there is a circular stairway to the top where one can fully admire Princes Street. However, it does take some stamina to climb all the stairs.

Calton Hill is one of the best vantage points in Edinburgh. Be it day or night, or even sunset, the view from up there is extraordinary. If you walk all around the hill, you have the most varied selection of views: Leith (the Docks), Firth of Forth, Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Crags. You can admire Holyrood Palace and Holyrood Abbey at the foot of Arthur's Seat as well as the new Scottish Parliament. The best view is that looking along Princes Street towards Edinburgh Castle.

The position of Calton Hill allows one to see all of Edinburgh Centre. Looking from left to right: North Bridge, Old Town, Scottish Parliament, Ramsay Garden, Edinburgh Castle, Princes Street, and further to the right, St. Andrew's Square. Calton Hill is also the best place for fireworks displays in Edinburgh.

Situated on top of Calton Hill is Nelson's Monument and the Scottish National Monument dedicated to those who died in the Napoleonic Wars. Nelson's Monument commemorates the victory of Lord Nelson over the French and Spanish at the Battle of Trafalgar. Why it was built in Scotland since Nelson was not Scottish, I have no idea.

Calton Hill may not be as geologically impressive as Arthur's Seat, Salisbury Crags, or the Castle Rock, but it does stand out in Edinburgh's skyline through the number of monuments situated on top of it.

On Calton Hill you also find the National Monument. It was to become a Scottish equivalent of the Parthenon of Athens, but they ran out of money so the Monument was never finished. Some say that it's more charming than it would have been if it had ever been finished.

The Palace of Holyrood House.

Founded as a monastery in 1128, the Palace of Holyroodhouse in Edinburgh is The Queen's official residence in Scotland. Situated at the end of the Royal Mile, the Palace of Holyroodhouse is closely associated with Scotland's turbulent past, including Mary, Queen of Scots, who lived there between 1561 and 1567. Successive kings and queens have made the Palace of Holyroodhouse the premier royal residence in Scotland. Today, the Palace serves as the setting for State ceremonies and official entertaining.

Legend has it that King David I, son of Malcolm Canmore and St. Margaret, was hunting in 1128 when his horse was startled by a stag that appeared out of nowhere. King David found himself hurled to the ground, in mortal danger of being gored by the stag's antlers. In desperation, he grasped hold of them, whereupon they miraculously changed into a Crucifix. This story echoes a similar tale of St. Hubert in France. That night, King David pledged to build an Abbey for Canons devoted to the Cross. Holyrood means "Holy Cross."

By the early 1300s, there was already a Royal Residence built adjacent to the Abbey Church. Now, the oldest part, on the left as you look at the entrance and front courtyard, was built in 1528-32 by John Ayton, master mason to James V. Later, in the 17th century, the present, much-extended form was created during rebuilding for Charles II.

The Palace of Holyrood House - The Abbey ruin.

Originally an Augustinian monastery founded by David I, son of St. Margaret of Scotland, in 1128.

Name taken from relic, fragment of the True Cross brought to Scotland by St. Margaret.
Holyrood Palace buildings overtook the abbey which became a ruin.

The ruined Holyrood Abbey lies on the north side of the Palace of Holyroodhouse at the end of the Royal Mile in Edinburgh. King David I (1080 - 1153) founded the abbey, after he had been attacked by a stag during a hunting expedition, in area of what is now the Canongate. It was run by the Augustinian order (the so-called White Friars), and played an important part in the lives of a succession of Scottish monarchs, who based themselves in the Abbey lodgings rather than in the cold and uncomfortable Edinburgh Castle.

The Abbey was desecrated by Hertford in 1544, and later restored by Abbot Bellenden. The Abbey was damaged during the English raids under Somerset in 1547, and the roofs stripped of their lead coverings. The transepts with their chapels and the quire and presbytery were cast down about 1569 by order of the General Assembly of the Reformed Kirk. The vaulted loft ceiling fell later, in 1768, destroying the main arcading on the north side and north aisle. King Charles I improved the appearance of the truncated Abbey in his zeal for Episcopacy.

The nave was used as the parish kirk under Presbyterianism or Episcopacy depending on the times.

An interesting final chapter in the life of the Abbey was written when James VII (II) established a College of Jesuits within the Holyroodhouse and had a printing press set up for them. He revived the Noble Order of the Thistle in 1687 and intended to have its chapel there.

The congregation was moved to the new kirk in the Canongate. By May 1st 1688 James VII had turned Holyrood Abbey into a Roman Catholic place of worship. William of Orange landed at Torbay on November 5th. People of Edinburgh, accompanied by Magistrates, Heralds, City Guard, invaded the Palace. They overcame the musketeers who defended it, forced entrance into the Royal apartments, and tore out all the furnishings and ornaments of the King's private chapel. They broke into the Kirk and harried the interior. They broke into the Royal burial vault and cast out bones of Kings and Princes. Yes, they were vandals.

Penguin Parade in Edinburgh Zoo.

Edinburgh’s long-standing connection with penguins can be traced back to the involvement of the Zoo Society’s first president, Lord Salvesen—a law lord related to the family behind the Leith-based South Georgia Whaling Company. Today, any link between a conservation zoo and whaling might seem unfathomable, but in the early days, the whalers provided the zoo with rare access to wildlife from the Southern Oceans—among them a seemingly endless supply of penguins.

The first six penguins arrived in 1914, though they were met with limited enthusiasm by Gillespic, who showed a far greater interest in the elephant seals that accompanied them. However, as more penguins arrived annually, it quickly became clear they thrived in Scotland’s mild climate. Over the years, the Salvesens brought more than 800 penguins to Edinburgh—some destined for the city zoo and others for institutions across the UK.

At various points, the zoo has housed representatives from nearly every penguin species, including the first Adelie penguins ever seen in Europe, and the first New Zealand ‘fairy’ blue penguins.

In the 1950s, an event occurred that would become zoo folklore. A keeper inadvertently left a gate open to the penguin pool, and was promptly followed by a procession of penguins wandering through the zoo. It marked the beginning of Edinburgh’s now-famous ‘Penguin Parade’—an event enjoyed daily by summer visitors, and seemingly just as enthusiastically by the penguins themselves, with around two-thirds of the zoo’s 120-strong colony typically choosing to take part.

Inverness Castle.

Inverness Castle, built in 1835 on the site of an earlier fortress, stands on a low cliff overlooking the River Ness and the cathedral across the water.

It’s believed that the 11th-century castle depicted in Shakespeare’s Macbeth—despite there being no historical evidence to confirm it was the scene of Duncan I’s murder—was actually located east of the present castle. Originally constructed from wood, it was later rebuilt in stone on Castle Hill. According to local legend, the ghost of King Duncan has been seen wandering along the banks of the River Ness in full royal regalia.

Today, Inverness Castle houses the Sheriff’s Court. Visitors can stroll up Castle Street, which winds around the rear of the building and past vibrant floral displays, to reach the statue of Flora MacDonald. At the Castle Garrison Encounter, you can step back in time to the year 1745, enlist in the Regiment, and meet some of its colourful characters brought to life.

Urquhart Castle.

Castle Urquhart (pronounced “urkhurt”) stands proudly on a rocky promontory along the north shore of Loch Ness. It was originally built in the 13th century for Alan Durward, son-in-law of King Alexander II. In 1296, it was seized by English forces, and over the following decades, ownership passed through various hands until 1308, when Robert the Bruce granted it to his nephew, Sir Thomas Randolph.

Urquhart’s story reflects the turbulent threads of Scottish history. In 1513, the castle was caught in renewed conflict, and in 1545 it was besieged and looted by western clans. Though repairs were made, the castle gradually declined and played only a minor role during the Civil War of the 1640s.

Its last military action took place in 1689, when a small garrison loyal to the Protestant monarchy of William and Mary held off a far larger Jacobite force. Upon retreat, the defenders destroyed large parts of the castle—evidence of which is still visible around the gatehouse today. In the centuries that followed, locals used the ruins as a quarry, which explains why much of the original structure has disappeared.

Fish farming near Portree.

The extensive Hebridean archipelago is divided into two main groups: the Outer and Inner Hebrides. Nestled off the western coast of Scotland in the Northern Highlands, these islands are among the most breathtaking in the world. One of the larger islands in the Inner Hebrides, the Isle of Skye, is perhaps best known as the escape route of Charles Edward Stuart—Bonnie Prince Charlie—following the Jacobite Uprising.

Skye’s northeast corner offers a perfect blend of drama and grace. From the surreal, windswept landscapes of the Trotternish Peninsula to the painted charm of Portree, the scenery unfolds in captivating layers. Coastal trails reward walkers with panoramic views, while the waters below host fish farms dotted along the shoreline. The coastline itself is incredibly diverse, featuring sheer cliffs bursting with seabird colonies and dazzling waterfalls that tumble into the sea.

Portree is Skye’s main town. Its name, Port-an-Righ (“King’s Port”), commemorates a visit by King James V—along with his fleet of warships—in 1540, an effort to rally support from the island clans. The town was previously known as Kiltraglen.

Skye’s rich history is reflected in its castles, the most renowned being Dunvegan Castle. Home to the Chiefs of the MacLeod clan for nearly 800 years, it remains a private residence to this day. Built on a rocky outcrop once encircled by salt water, it’s the only Scottish castle of such age to have retained both its roof and its ancestral family throughout centuries of upheaval. It has weathered everything from inter-clan warfare and famine to the sweeping social and political changes that shaped the Western Highlands and Islands.

Visitors to Skye can also savour the island’s whisky heritage at Talisker Distillery. Located on the shores of Loch Harport and framed by the jagged Cuillin mountains, it uses water sourced from the burn rising in Cnoc nan Speirag (Hawk Hill). The result? A distinctive marine-flavoured whisky, cherished by those drawn to Talisker’s bold, coastal character.

Eileen Donan Castle.

Eilean Donan, meaning “Island of Donan” in Gaelic, takes its name from a 6th-century hermit, St Donan, who once lived here.

The present castle was built in the 13th century by Alexander II to defend against Viking invasions and was later gifted to Colin Fitzgerald. Its sturdy keep proved a formidable defence over the centuries, repelling many attacks—including repeated raids by the MacDonalds of the Isles.

During the first Jacobite rebellion, the MacRae family, who owned the castle at the time, supported the Old Pretender. They stationed a small contingent of Spanish troops on the island, but in 1719, the castle was bombarded by four English frigates and eventually forced to surrender.

Eilean Donan lay in ruins until 1912, when Colonel John MacRae-Gilstrap undertook a meticulous restoration of his ancestral home. Over the next twenty years, he rebuilt the castle with careful attention to detail. It opened to the public in 1934, and the colonel lived there part of the year. Today, it also stands as the spiritual heart of the MacRae clan.

The castle is rumoured to be haunted. One ghost is believed to be a Spanish soldier from the 1719 battle, seen carrying his head under his arm. Another is Lady Mary, said to drift quietly through one of the bedrooms.

Eilean Donan’s dramatic setting and striking silhouette have made it a favourite filming location. It features prominently in the 1986 cult film Highlander with Christopher Lambert and Sean Connery, as well as in the James Bond film The World Is Not Enough and various lesser-known productions.

View from Nevis Range.

Here I am at the top of the Nevis Range! It’s surprisingly easy to reach thanks to the gondolas that run all year round—the same ones used during winter for the ski resort. Just sit back and enjoy the effortless ride up to 2,150 feet, where you’re greeted by spectacular views and crisp mountain air.

At the summit, two gravel paths offer relatively easy walks to scenic viewpoints. The first, a round trip of about 40 minutes, leads to Sgurr Finnisg-aig. The trail climbs gently and opens up to sweeping views across the Great Glen and the hills of Knoydart, with Carn Mor Dearg and Ben Nevis behind you.

The slightly longer walk to Meall Beag takes around an hour. Heading in the opposite direction, it brings you to another viewpoint with breathtaking vistas over Loch Linnhe, Loch Eil, and the rugged hills of Ardgour and Moidart. There are also more challenging trails for experienced hillwalkers and mountaineers.

From the base station, several signposted walking routes are available. One of the favourites is the River Lundy walk, which takes roughly 45 minutes. It crosses the Allt Daim and the River Lundy, offering lovely views of Fort William and Ben Nevis for much of the way.

Waterfall at Glen Nevis.

Glen Nevis offers some truly enchanting hikes through its dramatic gorge, where the River Nevis tumbles down from the surrounding peaks on its journey towards the sea.

Before reaching the gorge, you'll encounter the Lower Falls—the river’s first real display of power. During wet weather, these waterfalls are especially impressive, thundering below your feet as you cross the bridge.

Inside the gorge, expect a feast for the senses: wildflowers in bloom, gently cascading streams, and stunning views both ahead and behind. After a short but enjoyable walk over rocky terrain, the landscape opens into a hanging valley, with Stall Falls dramatically pouring in from above.

A further 15-minute walk leads to a wire-rope bridge, offering a close-up look at Stall Falls—and a chance to test your balance and nerve by crossing the river on steel cables. Be sure to bring your camera, waterproofs and a good dose of midge repellent. You’ll want to savour every moment.

Glenfinnan viaduct.

The area surrounding the Glenfinnan Monument and the nearby railway viaduct has become iconic, thanks in part to its appearance in films—including the Harry Potter series.

Widely regarded as one of the world’s great railway journeys, this 84-mile round trip takes in a striking list of geographical extremes. The journey begins near Britain’s highest mountain, Ben Nevis, travels to the country’s most westerly mainland railway station at Arisaig, passes by Loch Morar—the deepest freshwater loch in Britain—and crosses the River Morar, the nation’s shortest river. It finally arrives beside Loch Nevis, the deepest seawater loch in Europe.

Constructed in the years leading up to 1901, the West Highland Extension Railway was a major engineering feat undertaken by Sir Robert McAlpine. One of its most impressive structures is the Glenfinnan Viaduct, stretching 380 metres with 21 graceful arches, the tallest standing 30 metres high. While the scale is striking from afar, what’s less apparent is the gentle curve of the viaduct, guiding the tracks around the head of the River Finnan valley.

Loch Morar.

Although just ten metres above sea level, this loch holds the title of the deepest in the British Isles—reaching depths of over a thousand feet. Like many sea lochs in the West Highlands, it was carved out by a mighty glacier when the region lay buried beneath an ice sheet 1,300 metres thick.

This loch even has its own mysterious legend to match Loch Ness. In the 1960s, several sightings were reported of a 13-metre creature known locally as Mhorag—a monster said to rival Nessie herself.

Surrounded by dramatic mountains, scattered islands and peaceful lochs, the area remains wild and largely untouched—even by the Scots. For many visitors, it’s considered the most beautiful corner of Scotland.