In November 2002 my girlfriend and I went to Helsinki for a week. I had
a friend there who studied at the university, and he invited us to stay
at his place. During the days there we saw almost all the beautiful
sights in the city and the lovely old village, Porvoo. Beside we had
time to go to Tallinn on a one-day trip. Read about it in the Tallinn
section.
Porvoo
Six towns were established in Finland during the Middle Ages. Some of them, like Porvoo, grew into towns without an official order. Porvoo received its town rights after Turku, sometime in the 14th century. According to the story, in 1346, Maunu Eerikinpoika (Magnus Eriksson), the King of Sweden at the time, visited Porvoo and granted the town rights on the spot.
In the old part of Porvoo, the streets remain narrow, and the houses are kept in a colorful, traditional style. The roads are paved with stone, showcasing impressive craftsmanship.
Riverside storehouses.
The riverside storehouses once surrounded a medieval harbor where salt and other goods were imported. Porvoo was granted full export rights as a staple town as early as the 16th century. From the 17th century, with the rise of mercantilism, Porvoo exported products such as butter, timber, dried fish, linen, and tarâalthough tar had to be sold through Helsinki.
The old Market Hall.
The Old Market Hall on the south shore was the first of its kind in Finland, opening in 1889. Near the Esplanade Park at the western end of the Market Square stands the statue of Havis Amanda, a mermaid symbolizing Helsinki, rising gracefully from a fountain.
The lively atmosphere of the Market, filled with delicious aromas, draws shoppers and visitors looking for a snack or a coffee. Food and goods have been traded here since the 18th century, which also marked the beginning of the popular Baltic Herring Market held every October. In summer, the ferry to the Suomenlinna sea fortress departs from Market Square, along with many waterbus cruises.
Front of the old Market Hall.
Me at the main entrance to the old market hall.
The Presidential Palace.
The Presidential Palace was originally built in 1820 as the home of merchant and ship-owner J.H. Heidenstrauch, during the time when Finland was an autonomous Grand Duchy within the Russian Empire (1809â1917). It was soon bought to serve as the official residence of the Grand Duke during his visits to Helsinki. After Finland became an independent republic, the building was renovated in 1921 to become the official residence of the Finnish President. Today, however, the President lives at MĂ€ntyniemi, a modern home in Helsinkiâs Meilahti district.
Walls at Suomenlinna
These are some of the walls at Suomenlinna, a massive fortress built on an island in the Gulf of Helsinki. You can only reach it by boat, but the short trip is definitely worth it.
Sweden began building Suomenlinna in 1748, when Finland was still part of the Swedish kingdom. Worried about its eastern border, Sweden decided to build a strong fortress to stop Russia from expanding. The small town of Helsinki and the Susiluodot islands just off the coast were chosen as the location.
The fortress was originally called Sveaborg, meaning âSwedenâs fortress.â It was Swedenâs largest building project ever and was mostly funded by subsidies from France. Augustin EhrensvĂ€rd, a lieutenant colonel who was also a skilled politician, organizer, and fortress planner, was put in charge of construction.
The busiest building period lasted 40 years. Thousands of soldiers built walls, fortifications, houses, and a large dry dock. The fortress grew into a city with more people than Helsinki itself. The dry dock built ships for a famous archipelago fleet at the end of the 18th century.
In 1808, the fortress surrendered to the Russians after a blockade, almost without a fight. The next year, Finland became part of the Russian Empire. The fortress that was built to protect Swedenâs eastern border now guarded Russiaâs western frontier.
The Russians ruled Sveaborg for 110 years. They built barracks, hospitals, and a church to support a large garrison. Because of the fortress, Helsinki was chosen as the new capital of Finland.
During the Crimean War in 1855, Viapori (as the fortress was called then) was bombarded for two days and nights by a large Anglo-French fleet.
After Finland gained independence, the fortress was renamed Suomenlinna in 1918, which means âFinlandâs fortress.â The Finnish period started harshly, as a large prison camp was set up on the islands for the Reds who lost the Finnish Civil War. But life soon calmed down, and Suomenlinna served as a Finnish military base for many years. In 1973, it finally came under civilian administration.
More fortification at Suomenlinna.
Read about the fortification of the island under the âwalls at Suomenlinnaâ picture.
Window in the walls at Suomenlinna.
The outer walls are very thick. You can see a small window here, designed for defense. Soldiers could easily shoot through this narrow opening, and if enemies got too close, the small door could be quickly closed to keep them out.
Inside the walls at Suomenlinna.
When you walk from window to window (as shown in the previous picture), you are actually walking inside the thick walls. The windows are to the right in each room, just past the curved openings you can see straight ahead.
Galley Dock.
The Galley Dock in Helsinki, built in 1760, is the oldest active dock for sailing vessels in all of Europe.
Inside the old market hall
The Old Helsinki Market Hall, located at EtelÀranta near the South Harbour, was designed by Gustaf Nyström and completed in 1889. It has been serving locals and visitors ever since.
In the past, most food was sold outdoors, but by the end of the 19th century, concerns about food safety led to moving much of the trade indoors. The Market Hall was Finlandâs first indoor market building. Regulations required that meat, eggs, cheese, and produce be sold inside the hall, and later some fish sales were also moved indoors.
Just before its 100th anniversary, the hall was refurbished with modern storage and equipment. Today, it remains a lively and popular meeting and shopping place for both Helsinki residents and visitors.
Uspensky Cathedral.
Uspensky Cathedral, built in 1868, is an Orthodox Christian cathedral located on a small hill near the city center and waterfront.
This beautiful church reflects Russiaâs historic influence in the region. Designed by Russian architect Aleksei Gornostaev, it follows the Greek Orthodox tradition. Unlike many Western churches, which often have plain grey or white façades, Russian churches are known for their vibrant colors.
Uspensky Cathedral stands out with its striking red walls and a golden onion domeâthe iconic symbol of Russian Orthodox churches worldwide.
Temppeliaukio Church âThe Rock Churchâ
Carved into a small granite hill, Temppeliaukio Church is one of Helsinkiâs greatest modern architectural successes. Itâs a unique place that can calm the mind like meditation.
Designed by two architect brothers, this amazing ârock churchâ was built right into solid rock in 1969, right in the heart of Helsinki. Thanks to its excellent acoustics, itâs often used as a concert hall.
Visiting Temppeliaukio Church is likely one of the most unusual spiritual experiences youâll ever have, whether you are religious or not.
Finnish church architecture reached new heights with this building. Every year, about half a million people come to see the âChurch in the Rock.â
Inside Temppeliaukio Church
The Church Without a Tower
The large Taivallahti congregation in Töölö didnât have its own church, but they did have a siteâa granite outcrop in the middle of a square called Temppeliaukio (âTemple Squareâ).
When architects Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen designed the church, it caused quite a stir. Building it meant hollowing out a large hole in the granite and covering it with a slightly curved roof. The design had no decorations except for copper sheets on the ceiling, and the church didnât even have a bell tower.
But when the church was consecrated in 1969, all doubts disappeared. It quickly became a pilgrimage site for people of all religions and nationalities.
Inside Temppeliaukio Church #2
Temppeliaukio Church is worth visiting, whether youâre religious or not. Its simple, unadorned interior doesnât focus on strong religious symbols but instead creates space for reflection and humanity. Besides serving as a place of worship, itâs also a popular venue for concerts.
The church feels like a cavern full of ancient powerâa real, living space in the flow of time.
The Cathedral as a symbol of Helsinki.
The Lutheran Cathedral, once known as the Church of St. Nicholas or simply "the big church," is probably Finlandâs most photographed building. It was consecrated in 1852.
The cathedral hosts special services for important government and university events, but it also serves as the parish church for the local Evangelical-Lutheran community.
Inside The Lutheran Cathedral.
The interior is plain, except for the large organ and the beautiful pulpit. However, the crypt features some lovely wall figures of musicians.
The pulpit in the Lutheran Cathedral.
The pulpit is a magnificent piece of craftsmanship and design.