In November 2005, my girlfriend and I took a trip to the Italian capital, Rome. Our main focus was on immersing ourselves in the city's ancient history and exploring Vatican City.

We spent most of our time on foot, as Rome's major attractions are surprisingly close to one another. For the longer distances, we hopped on the Metro, which proved to be a cheap and perfectly efficient way to get around.

Visiting in late autumn turned out to be a fantastic decision. The city is packed with culture, and at that time of year, we could explore all the incredible sights without the long queues that are common during peak season.



Coliseum

Coliseum

The Colosseum is one of the most iconic symbols of Imperial Rome. Its construction began around 72 AD under the reign of Emperor Vespasian and was dedicated in 80 AD by his son, Titus. While its official name was the Flavian Amphitheatre, it became popularly known as the Colosseum, likely because it was built next to a colossal statue of the Emperor Nero.

This immense oval stadium was an architectural marvel. Standing over 160 feet high with eighty entrances, it could hold more than 50,000 spectators. Inside, it was home to brutal public events, most famously the gladiator fights. The fighters were typically slaves, prisoners of war, or volunteers. During some of the grandest games, it's said that as many as 10,000 people were killed. It was also a site where spectators witnessed persecuted Christians being killed by lions.

While gladiator battles were banned after 404 AD, the slaughter continued. Wild animal hunts, where lions, elephants, snakes, and panthers were massacred in the name of sport, carried on until the 6th century. For a time, the arena could even be flooded for spectacular mock naval battles by removing the heavy wooden floor. However, as gladiator fights were more popular, the naval battles were moved, and the wooden floor was made permanent.

The Romans' engineering genius was on full display. A massive linen awning, supported by masts on the fourth story, could be unfurled to protect the audience from the sun. The upper class sat on marble seats, while the lower classes used wooden benches. Ramps made it easy for large crowds to move, and a 15-foot high wall separated spectators from the bloody events. High above, trained archers even stood on a catwalk, ready to intervene if an enraged animal got out of hand.

During the Middle Ages, the Colosseum fell into ruin and was used as a source of stone for new buildings. Today, although only a ruin of its former self, it remains one of Rome's most famous landmarks and a breathtaking example of Roman architecture and engineering.

The Palatine Hill and Circus Maximus.

The Palatine Hill and Circus Maximus.

The Palatine Hill: The Birthplace of Rome

The Palatine is the most central of Rome's seven hills and the place where the city's story begins. According to Roman mythology, this was the very spot where the twin brothers, Romulus and Remus, were discovered and saved by a she-wolf. They were later found by a shepherd who raised them, and it was here that Romulus chose to found the city that would bear his name. This legend is supported by archaeology, as recent excavations show that people have lived on the Palatine since at least 1000 BC.

Today, the Palatine Hill feels more like a serene park than a typical archaeological site. Well-preserved ruins of ancient palaces and temples stand among shady maritime pine trees. Quiet paths invite you to wander through what was once the most desirable neighbourhood in ancient Rome. For a truly special experience, visit at dusk and watch the sun set over the heart of the ancient city, with views stretching from the Circus Maximus to the Roman Forum and the Colosseum.

The Circus Maximus: Rome's Great Arena

Lying in the valley below the Palatine Hill is the Circus Maximus, a colossal chariot-racing stadium that was famous throughout the ancient world. At its peak, this massive venue could hold up to 320,000 spectators, making it the largest sports arena ever built. While primarily used for thrilling horse races, it also hosted mock battles and wild animal hunts.

A long barrier, called the spina, ran down the center of the track. It was elaborately decorated with fountains, statues, and two grand Egyptian obelisks. The spina also featured a clever lap-counting system: one temple held seven large eggs and another held seven bronze dolphins. After each of the seven laps in a race, one egg and one dolphin would be removed, so the racers and the roaring crowds always knew how many laps were left.

Life in the stands was a major social event. Unlike in other venues like the Colosseum, men and women were allowed to sit together. The Circus also had the ancient equivalent of modern skyboxes, with the Emperor, senators, and other important figures having reserved seats with the best views.

The history of the Circus Maximus is long and dramatic. First built in the 6th century BC, it was used for nearly a millennium, with the last race held in 549 AD. Over the centuries, it was twice destroyed by fire and suffered collapses that killed many spectators. It was repeatedly rebuilt by emperors like Augustus, Claudius, and Trajan, each time becoming more magnificent.

Today, nothing of the original structure remains except for the vast, grassy depression that perfectly outlines the shape of the ancient track. Standing there, you can still feel the immense scale of the arena where Roman charioteers once raced for glory.

Foro Di Augusto

Foro Di Augusto

Next to the forum of his great-uncle Julius Caesar, Emperor Augustus built his own, even larger forum. The entire complex was enclosed by a high, imposing wall, designed to separate the grand space from the bustling, fire-prone city outside.

The centerpiece was the magnificent Temple of Mars Ultor (Mars the Avenger). Augustus vowed to build this temple before the Battle of Philippi in 42 BC, where he successfully avenged Caesar's assassination. The temple stood on an impressive 3.5-meter-high podium with a grand staircase. Inside its apse stood statues of Mars and Venus—the mythical ancestor of the Julian family.

This forum was a vital center for the Roman Empire's foreign policy. Important political and religious ceremonies took place here, such as planning military campaigns and appointing governors for the provinces. Flanking the temple were grand halls, one of which was known as the Hall of the Colossus, as it held a colossal statue of either Augustus or Mars. The main entrance to the forum was through the archway now known as the Arco dei Pantani.

After the fall of the Roman Empire, the forum's story continued. In the Middle Ages, the site was occupied by a convent, and the great temple was converted into the Church of San Basilio, with a Romanesque bell tower added. Later, the monastery was taken over by Dominican nuns. These medieval buildings stood for centuries before they were demolished in the 1930s, as part of a massive archaeological project to excavate the ancient Imperial Forums we see today.

Trajan Column

Trajan Column

Standing tall in the heart of Rome, Trajan's Column is the best-preserved feature of the vast Forum of Trajan. Constructed between 112-113 AD, the column itself is nearly 30 meters high (100 Roman feet), and with its pedestal, it reaches a towering 38 meters. This magnificent structure was the centerpiece of a sprawling complex that included a grand courtyard, the massive Basilica Ulpia, two libraries, and the incredible multi-level Trajan's Market on the nearby Quirinal Hill.

The column was designed to be a powerful symbol of propaganda and commemoration, honoring Emperor Trajan in three distinct ways. First, a bronze statue of Trajan originally stood at the very top, though it was lost in the Middle Ages and replaced by a statue of St. Peter in 1588. Second, the pedestal served as a final resting place, housing a golden urn with Trajan's ashes after his death in 117 AD. Third, and most famously, the column tells a story. A breathtaking sculptural relief, nearly 200 meters long, winds around the shaft 23 times, depicting Trajan's victorious military campaigns in Dacia (modern-day Romania).

The Story in Stone

The detailed carvings are a masterclass in Roman narrative art. They function like a historical comic strip, showing the major events of the two Dacian Wars (101-102 AD and 105-106 AD). The story unfolds through a series of recurring themes, showing the Roman army as it:

  • Sets out for war: The very first scene shows soldiers crossing the Danube River on a bridge of boats, watched over by a carving of the river god.

  • Builds and fortifies camps: The second band shows the meticulous construction of a Roman camp.

  • Listens to the emperor: Trajan is shown addressing his troops before battle.

  • Engages in battle and achieves victory: In one scene, a defeated Dacian embassy pleads with Trajan after a battle.

An Artistic and Engineering Marvel

The creation of the column was an incredible feat. Its height cleverly represents the exact height of the hill that was excavated to level the ground for the forum. The column's shaft is made from 18 massive blocks of Greek marble, and the spiral relief was carved only after the blocks were stacked, a technique that masterfully hides the joins between them.

The sculptor was brilliant, even compensating for perspective. To ensure viewers on the ground could see the upper scenes clearly, the height of the carved band gradually increases from bottom to top (from 0.9m to 1.25m). Originally, the carvings were brought to life with vibrant paint and metal accessories, like tiny spears and swords, which have long since disappeared. Because the column stood between two libraries, the upper sections could also be viewed in detail from the buildings' top floors. Hidden from view is a spiral staircase of 185 steps inside the hollow column, lit by 43 small window slits that are cleverly integrated into the design.

Today, you can still visit the nearby Trajan's Market, which is considered the world's first shopping mall and is remarkably well-preserved. Together with the column, it offers a stunning glimpse into the grandeur and ingenuity of Imperial Rome.

Trajan Column - Symbolism

Trajan Column - Symbolism

What’s remarkable about Trajan's Column is how it celebrates the emperor's successes without making him seem superhuman. Trajan personally led the campaigns and appears frequently in the carvings, but he isn't portrayed as a giant or a god. Instead, you can spot him because he is the focus of the action—his gestures direct the army, and his men always look to him for command. He remains a human leader, dominating scenes simply by his constant presence. This is very different from other monuments like the Arch of Titus, where the emperor is clearly set apart from the mortal world.

The sculptor's main goal was to tell the complex story of the Dacian Wars as clearly as possible. To do this, they used some clever artistic tricks. The artist often combined different viewpoints in a single scene. For example, you might see a "bird's-eye view" of a Roman camp combined with a frontal view of the soldiers outside its walls. While it might seem illogical to a modern viewer, this technique allowed the artist to show multiple important events happening at the same time.

You can see this storytelling in action on the lowest bands of the column. The story begins at the bottom (Band 1), where the Roman army marches across a pontoon bridge, watched over by a large carving of the river god, Danuvius. In the next scene (Band 2), the army constructs a fortified camp, with Trajan himself supervising the work. Then (Band 3), the cavalry and infantry prepare to set out from the camp for battle. Finally (Band 4), this part of the story culminates with Trajan standing in the center, receiving a delegation of defeated Dacians after the first major battle. As you look, you might also notice the small rectangular holes in the sculpture; these are the windows that let light into the spiral staircase hidden inside the column.

Vittorio Emanuele Monument

Vittorio Emanuele Monument

One of Rome's most unmissable and controversial landmarks is the massive Vittorio Emanuele II Monument. Built to honor Victor Emmanuel II, the first king of a unified Italy in the mid- to late 1800s, its construction required demolishing a historic medieval neighborhood on the Capitoline Hill, a fact that has long divided opinion among Romans. Because of its brilliant color and grand scale, it's often referred to by its nicknames, "Il Vittoriano" or the "Altare della Patria" (Altar of the Fatherland).

The monument is built of pure white marble that gleams in the sun. It features majestic stairways, rows of tall Corinthian columns, and several impressive sculptures. A huge bronze equestrian statue of Victor Emmanuel himself sits at the center, while two statues of the goddess Victoria ride on quadrigas (ancient four-horse chariots) at the very top.

More than just a monument to a king, the structure is a shrine to the Italian nation. It holds the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, a memorial added after World War I which is guarded by an eternal flame. The base of the monument also fittingly houses the Museum of Italian Reunification, telling the story of the country's creation.

Roman Forum (Foro Romano)

Roman Forum (Foro Romano)

The Roman Forum was the vibrant heart of the ancient city, a bustling center for everything from sacred rituals and political speeches to the public cremation of Julius Caesar himself. Traversed by the Via Sacra (Sacred Way)—the Broadway of ancient Rome—the Forum was built on marshy land between the Palatine and Capitoline hills. It flourished as the center of Roman life during the Republic before gradually losing prestige to the grander Imperial Forums.

Today, you'll see a sprawling landscape of ruins and fragments, an arch or two, and lots of scattered stones, but with a little imagination, you can feel the immense rush of history here. It's a miracle that any of the Forum remains, as it was used for centuries as a quarry for new buildings, much like the Colosseum. Eventually, it was abandoned completely and became what the Italians called a campo vaccino (cow pasture). Thankfully, excavations in the 19th century began to unearth one of the world's most historic sites.

By day, the columns of now-vanished temples and the stones from which powerful orators spoke can feel like mere shells. Weeds grow where a triumphant Caesar was once lionized. But at night, when the Forum is silent and bathed in moonlight, it isn't difficult to imagine the Vestal Virgins still guarding their sacred temple fire. The best view of the Roman Forum at night is from the Capitoline Hill (Campidoglio), the beautiful Renaissance piazza designed by Michelangelo that overlooks the ruins.

You can easily spend a morning wandering through what remains of the Forum. If you're content with just soaking in the atmosphere, you can do so at your leisure. However, to truly bring the stones to life and understand what you're looking at, it's a great idea to buy a detailed plan at the gate, as the individual temples can be hard to identify otherwise.

It's me under the Arch of Septimius Severus

It's me under the Arch of Septimius Severus

The Arch of Septimius Severus is one of two grand triumphal arches still standing in the Roman Forum, the other being the more famous Arch of Titus. You can find this massive, well-preserved monument at the western end of the Forum, near the base of the Capitoline Hill. It was built in 203 AD to commemorate the victories of Emperor Septimius Severus and his sons in Parthia (modern-day Iran and Iraq).

The arch is an impressive structure, standing 23 meters high and 25 meters wide. It has three distinct archways—a large central one and two smaller ones on the sides. Originally, a flight of stairs passed through the central arch, but this was removed in the 4th century to make way for a road. The upper sections are covered in elaborate relief panels that depict various stages of the war between the Romans and the Parthians.

Originally, the arch was topped by a bronze statue of a quadriga (a four-horse chariot) carrying the emperor and his two sons, Caracalla and Geta. The inscription in the attic proudly dedicated the arch to all three of them. However, this family portrait hides a dark story. Soon after their father's death, Caracalla had his younger brother Geta murdered. He then erased Geta’s name from the inscription on the arch, a chilling example of the Roman practice of condemning a person's memory by removing them from all public records.

The Arch of Septimius Severus is one of the best-preserved monuments in the Forum, thanks to a fortunate turn of events. During the Middle Ages, it was incorporated into the structure of a church. The church later moved, but it still owned the arch, which protected it from being torn down for building materials—the fate of many other ancient Roman buildings. For centuries, much of the arch was buried under layers of soil and debris, and it was only fully revealed when serious archaeological excavations of the Forum began in the 18th century.

Sculpture inside Domus Aurea

Sculpture inside Domus Aurea

The construction of the Domus Aurea, or Golden House, is considered one of the most extravagant and outrageous enterprises in Rome's history. After the Great Fire of 64 AD destroyed two-thirds of the city, Emperor Nero seized the vast cleared space to build a new residence for himself. His architects did everything possible to satisfy his megalomania, designing a sprawling palace complex that was meant to cover huge sections of the city.

The palace itself was a monument to tremendous luxury. The main building was situated on the Oppian Hill, with a public wing for receptions and a private wing for Nero himself. The rooms, halls, and corridors were lavishly decorated with gold leaf, mother-of-pearl, and inlaid precious stones. Most famously, it was said to have a circular dining room that revolved day and night, imitating the movement of the heavens.

Nero wasn't the first Roman to love the concept of rus in urbe—bringing elements of the countryside into the city—but he took it to an unprecedented level. Around the palace, he created a vast, man-made landscape of vineyards, pastures, and forests, complete with grazing herds and wild animals. He effectively turned the heart of Rome into his own private parkland.

Near the entrance to the Domus Aurea stood a gigantic bronze statue of Nero, known as the Colossus Neronis. This massive statue, standing over 37 meters tall, depicted the emperor as the sun god. Years later, Emperor Hadrian had the statue moved to a spot next to the Flavian Amphitheater. It was because of this colossal statue that the amphitheater eventually earned its world-famous nickname: the Colosseum.

The inside of Coliseum

The inside of Coliseum

The Flavian Amphitheater is not only the biggest and most imposing amphitheater in the Roman world, but it's also the most famous monument in Rome, known to everyone as the Colosseum. Started by Emperor Vespasian of the Flavian family, it was officially opened by his son Titus in 80 AD with a highly extravagant ceremony.

This grand opening festival lasted for one hundred days, during which the Roman people were treated to spectacular fights, shows, and hunts that involved the killing of thousands of wild animals—5,000 on the first day alone, according to the historian Suetonius. For the most fantastic event, the arena itself was flooded with water to stage naumachiae—real sea battles that recreated great naval victories from the past.

Later, these sea battles came to an end. The original flat arena floor was excavated to create the hypogeum, a complex two-level underground structure filled with tunnels and cages. This allowed animals, gladiators, and scenery to be hoisted up into the arena through trapdoors, creating surprising and dramatic effects for the spectators.

Today, when you visit the Colosseum, you can see the exposed walls of this underground labyrinth. A portion of the arena floor has been reconstructed to show what it would have looked like, and this modern stage is sometimes used for concerts and other special events.

Trevi fountain

Trevi fountain

The magnificent Trevi Fountain stands at the terminus of the ancient Aqua Virgo, an aqueduct constructed in 19 BC to bring pure water from the Salone Springs, approximately 20 km away. To this day, this aqueduct supplies the water for many of the fountains in Rome's historic center.

In 1732, Pope Clement XII commissioned architect Nicola Salvi to create a grand fountain in the Piazza di Trevi. A previous plan by the famous artist Bernini had been halted a century earlier, but Salvi based his own theatrical masterpiece on this earlier design. The construction of the monumental baroque fountain was finally completed in 1762, long after both Salvi and the pope had died.

The fountain's central figure is Neptune, the god of the sea, who stands majestically in a large niche. He rides a chariot shaped like a shell, pulled by two sea horses, each guided by a Triton. One horse is calm and obedient, while the other is wild and restive, symbolizing the ever-changing moods of the sea. To the left of Neptune is a statue representing Abundance, while the statue on the right represents Salubrity (Health). Above these sculptures, a bas-relief depicts the legend of the aqueduct's discovery, where a young girl (a virgo) showed the source of the spring to Roman soldiers.

The vast pool at the bottom of the fountain represents the sea. It's here that one of Rome's most famous traditions takes place. Legend has it that if you throw a coin into the water, you are guaranteed to return to the Eternal City. Just be sure to do it correctly: stand with your back to the fountain and toss the coin over your shoulder.

Old coffin in The Vatican Museum

Old coffin in The Vatican Museum

Just one of countless historical treasures in the Vatican Museums.
Roof painting in The Vatican Museum

Roof painting in The Vatican Museum

 One of the most amazing things about walking through the Vatican Museums is that you have to constantly remind yourself to look up. In nearly every room and hallway, the ceilings are magnificent works of art. This was just one of the many stunning painted ceilings that made us stop in our tracks and just stare in awe.
Elefantino

Elefantino

In the center of the Piazza della Minerva, right behind the famous Pantheon, stands one of Rome's most charming and unusual monuments. It features a small, 6th-century BC Egyptian obelisk perched on the back of a marble elephant. Because of the obelisk's small size, the statue earned the affectionate nickname "Pulcin della Minerva" (Minerva's Chick).

This unique masterpiece was designed by the great baroque artist Gian Lorenzo Bernini and carved by his student, Ercole Ferrata, in 1667. It was commissioned by Pope Alexander VII, and the entire structure is a clever allegory. The inscription on the base explains that it takes a strong mind (symbolized by the powerful elephant) to support the immense weight of wisdom (represented by the ancient obelisk).

Its location in front of the historic Santa Maria sopra Minerva church, its proximity to the Pantheon, and its very unusual design have made Bernini's little elephant a well-known and beloved landmark in Rome.

Pantheon

Pantheon

The Pantheon is, without a doubt, the best-preserved of all ancient Roman buildings. It's a true architectural marvel, considered the oldest important building in the world to still have its original roof intact. Originally built as a temple for all the Roman gods, it was converted into a Christian church in the 7th century, and its continuous use throughout its history is the key to its incredible survival.

The site's history goes back to the Roman Empire. The first Pantheon was built here between 27 and 25 BC by Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa. His name is still famously inscribed on the portico of the building we see today. The inscription reads: M·AGRIPPA·L·F·COS·TERTIUM·FECIT, which translates to "Marcus Agrippa, son of Lucius, consul for the third time, built this." Agrippa's original, magnificent complex also included adjoining public baths and beautiful water gardens.

Inside Pantheon

Inside Pantheon

While the architecture is the main star, the Pantheon is also the final resting place for some of Italy's most famous figures, including the great Renaissance artist Raphael and several Italian kings. It’s a powerful experience to see their tombs inside this ancient and sacred space.
Piazza Navona #1, Fountain of the Moor

Piazza Navona #1, Fountain of the Moor

Rome's most famous Baroque square, Piazza Navona, has a uniquely long, oval shape. This is because it was built on the site of an ancient Roman stadium, constructed by Emperor Domitian for competitive games, or "agone", which evolved into the piazza's modern name. For centuries, the space was used for festivals and sporting events, and today it's famous for its vibrant atmosphere and the beautiful Christmas market held there leading up to the feast of the Befana on January 6th.

The real centerpiece of the square is the magnificent Fountain of the Four Rivers, created by the legendary artist Gian Lorenzo Bernini in 1651. Commissioned by Pope Innocent X, the fountain features four giant river gods representing the major rivers of the continents then known to the Pope: the Danube (Europe), the Ganges (Asia), the Nile (Africa), and the Rio de la Plata (the Americas). They are arranged on a dramatic rocky reef, from which an ancient Egyptian obelisk daringly rises into the air.

A popular Roman legend insists that the fountain symbolizes the famous rivalry between Bernini and the architect Francesco Borromini. Borromini designed the church of Sant’Agnese in Agone, which stands directly in front of the fountain. According to the story, Bernini designed the river gods to be shielding their eyes or recoiling in horror so they would not have to look upon his rival's "horrible" work. It's a fantastic tale, even if the fountain was actually completed years before Borromini began work on the church's facade.

The Fountain of the Four Rivers is flanked by two other beautiful fountains. At the southern end is the Fountain of the Moor. Originally designed by Giacomo della Porta in 1575, its central figure of a muscular figure wrestling a dolphin was added by Bernini over a century later. The sculptures you see today are 19th-century copies; the originals were moved to the Villa Borghese for preservation. At the northern end of the piazza stands the impressive Fountain of Neptune, completing the beautiful symmetry of the square.

Piazza Navona #2, Fountain of the four Rivers

Piazza Navona #2, Fountain of the four Rivers

Piazza Navona is centered on three lavish fountains, but the one that captures all the attention is the magnificent central masterpiece, the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers). It was created by the legendary artist Bernini in the early 1650s and is considered one of the most complex fountains in all of Rome. The project was so expensive that a new tax on bread was introduced to cover the enormous cost, much to the anger of the Roman people. The fountain represents four great rivers from the continents then known to the world—the Danube, the Ganges, the Nile, and the Rio de la Plata—with each river god identifiable by the unique plants and animals carved around them.
Piazza Navona #3, Fountain of the four Rivers

Piazza Navona #3, Fountain of the four Rivers

Read Piazza Navona #2 to get more info
View over Vatican City and Ponte Vittorio Emanuele II

View over Vatican City and Ponte Vittorio Emanuele II

This is a beautiful view across the Tiber River, looking at the elegant Ponte Vittorio Emanuele II with the magnificent dome of St. Peter's Basilica rising in the background. The bridge itself, designed by Ennio De Rossi, was a massive undertaking, taking 25 years to build before it finally opened in 1911.

It's an incredibly ornate, three-arched bridge. Four tall columns are topped with bronze statues of the Winged Victory, but the real eye-catchers are the large white marble sculptures. Placed over the pillars of the central arch, these allegorical groups symbolize powerful national ideals: the Unity of Italy, Liberty, Oppression Defeated, and Loyalty to the Constitution.

Ponte Sant'Angelo and Castel Sant'Angelo

Ponte Sant'Angelo and Castel Sant'Angelo

The beautiful bridge and the towering fortress in this photo were originally built as a single, grand project. The bridge, now known as Ponte Sant'Angelo, was constructed between 134 and 139 AD by the Roman Emperor Hadrian. Its original name was the Pons Aelius (Aelian Bridge), and its purpose was to create a magnificent entranceway across the Tiber River, connecting the city center to his newly built mausoleum.

That towering cylindrical building is the mausoleum itself, now known as Castel Sant'Angelo. Initially commissioned by Hadrian as a final resting place for himself and his family, its function changed dramatically after the fall of Rome. For over a thousand years, it served as an imposing fortress and a papal castle, connected to the Vatican by a fortified corridor. Today, its long and varied history is on display, as the building now operates as a national museum.

The bridge itself is now for pedestrians only and provides a stunning, photogenic view of the castle. Lined with beautiful statues of angels designed by the great artist Bernini and his workshop in the 17th century, it truly lives up to its name, the "Bridge of Angels."

Fountain and st. Peters Cathedral

Fountain and st. Peters Cathedral

Directly in front of the basilica is the magnificent St. Peter's Square (Piazza di San Pietro), the grand entryway to the heart of the Catholic world. The square is defined by its vast, elliptical colonnades, designed by the great artist Gian Lorenzo Bernini between 1656 and 1667. These "embracing arms," as Bernini called them, are formed by four rows of massive Doric columns, designed to welcome pilgrims into the maternal embrace of the Church.

At the very center of the square stands a towering Egyptian obelisk. This incredible monument has a long and storied history. It was carved in Egypt in the 13th century BC and brought to Rome around 37 AD by the Emperor Caligula to decorate the center of his circus. It is the only ancient obelisk in Rome that has never toppled over. In 1585, by order of Pope Sixtus V, it was moved in a monumental feat of engineering to its current location. For centuries, a legend persisted that the bronze globe at its peak contained the ashes of Julius Caesar, though this was disproven when the globe was removed during the obelisk's relocation.

Perfectly balancing the piazza are two beautiful twin fountains. The northern fountain was created first, designed by Carlo Maderno in 1613 during the time of Pope Paul V, and you can still see the eagle emblem of the Pope's Borghese family on it. Decades later, Bernini designed the southern fountain in 1675 to create a perfect, harmonious symmetry with Maderno's original.

Inside St. Peters Cathedral

Inside St. Peters Cathedral

St. Peter's Basilica is the most prominent building in Vatican City, and its spectacular dome—a masterpiece designed by Michelangelo—is the dominant feature of the Roman skyline. The sheer scale of the basilica is hard to comprehend; it covers an area of 23,000 square meters and has a capacity of over 60,000 people.

At its heart, the basilica stands over the traditional burial site of its namesake, Saint Peter, who was one of the twelve apostles of Jesus. Following this sacred tradition, many popes throughout the centuries have also been buried within its walls. Building such a monumental church was an epic undertaking, with construction beginning in 1506 and finally being completed 120 years later in 1626, involving many of the greatest architects and artists of the age.

Castle of Giulio II

Castle of Giulio II

Located in the fascinating ancient port town of Ostia Antica, about 24 km outside of Rome, stands this impressive Renaissance fortress. The Castle of Julius II was strategically built in the late 15th century to defend and control the mouth of the Tiber River. Commissioned by Cardinal Giuliano della Rovere, who would later become the famous "warrior-pope," Pope Julius II.
Ostia Antica, the baths.

Ostia Antica, the baths.

One of the first incredible sights you encounter after entering Ostia Antica is the Baths of Neptune. The highlight here is a stunning and remarkably well-preserved black-and-white mosaic. Covering an impressive 55 by 36 feet, the mosaic depicts the sea god Neptune as he dramatically rides a chariot pulled through the waves by four spirited sea horses. These grand public baths were a central hub of social life in the ancient port city.
Ostia Antica, the ruins.

Ostia Antica, the ruins.

The sprawling ruins of Ostia Antica offer an incredible snapshot of daily Roman life. The city was founded in the 4th century BC as a military colony to guard the mouth of the Tiber River. It later grew into a vital commercial hub, as virtually all imports to the Capital arrived here. At its peak in the 2nd century AD, Ostia was a flourishing port city inhabited by over 100,000 people, and remarkably, their apartment buildings, taverns, and shops are still standing today.

As you explore, you'll find clusters of three and four-story apartment buildings known as insulae. These give a real sense of the Roman social ladder. The ground floors often housed shops, with merchants and the lower classes living in dark, stuffy mezzanines above. But if you climb the stairs, you'll find comfortable, multi-room apartments where middle-class families lived. Incredibly, many of these dwellings had their own kitchens, complete with hot running water channeled through lead pipes in the walls.

Many of these apartment buildings were designed around communal living. Inner courtyards with shared cisterns or swimming pools created a social hub, with residents looking down from their second-floor balconies. While some properties were simply rented out by landlords, the better ones functioned much like ancient condos, with all the tenants sharing facilities, expenses, and a sense of community.

Coliseum by night.

Coliseum by night.

Seeing the Colosseum at night is a must. The entire monument is dramatically lit, with cleverly placed spotlights that sometimes bathe the inner arches in colored light, making for a spectacular view.
Piazza di Spagna.

Piazza di Spagna.

The famous Piazza di Spagna is one of the most iconic spots in Rome, best known for its magnificent centerpiece, the Spanish Steps. This elegant staircase has been a cultural meeting ground for centuries, a perfect place to relax and enjoy the Roman sun. The steps get their name from the Spanish Embassy to the Holy See, which has been located in the piazza since the 17th century. They were designed by architect Francesco de Sanctis and completed in 1725 to create a grand, sweeping connection between the piazza below and the beautiful French church, TrinitĂ  dei Monti, which sits at the very top. In its heyday, this area was the heart of the "Strangers' Quarter," a neighborhood popular with foreign artists, poets, and writers, which adds to its romantic history.

At the foot of the steps sits the charming and unusual Fontana della Barcaccia, which translates to the "Fountain of the Leaky Boat." It was designed by Pietro Bernini, with help from his more famous son, Gian Lorenzo Bernini. The fountain has two fantastic stories behind it. The first is a popular legend that its design was inspired by a boat that was left stranded in the piazza after a major flood of the Tiber River in 1598. The second story explains its unique, low-level, semi-sunken design; the water pressure from the aqueduct feeding the fountain was very low, so the Berninis cleverly sank the fountain below street level to make it work.

The Mausoleum of Augustus

The Mausoleum of Augustus

The massive, circular ruin you see here is the Mausoleum of Augustus, built by the first Roman emperor as a grand tomb for himself and his family. In a powerful statement of his unique status, Augustus broke the long-standing Roman rule that forbade burials within the city's sacred boundary. The design was inspired by the ancient, circular burial mounds of the Etruscans, creating a monumental base, 88 meters in diameter, similar in style to the later Mausoleum of Hadrian (now Castel Sant'Angelo).

The outer wall was constructed of concrete and faced with gleaming white travertine marble. Behind this facade was a complex internal structure of concentric retaining walls. The spaces between these walls, apart from the central burial chamber and its passageways, were then filled with earth. This created a massive, man-made hill on top of the base, which was planted with evergreen cypress trees—a truly spectacular sight in ancient Rome.

Remains of a Roman aqueduct.

Remains of a Roman aqueduct.

Right next to the Colosseum, you can see the towering remains of an ancient Roman aqueduct. These incredible structures were the lifeblood of the city, brilliantly engineered channels that carried fresh drinking water from distant springs into Rome. While some of Rome's famed aqueducts still supply water to the city's fountains today, this one now stands as a silent and powerful reminder of the engineering genius of the Roman Empire.